The Campo dei Fiori owes its name to Campo for fields and meadows, and either Flora, the name of the mistress of the Ancient Roman Emperor Pompey, or Fiori being Italian for flowers. Daisies, poppies and meadow flowers once adorned the open square which was closed in by a row of palaces belonging to the Orsini family, the Roman Theatre of Pompey and open ground sloping down to the flood-prone River Tiber.
The Campo originally took in the larger area that now forms the Piazza Farnese (detailed on another page), immediately to the south-west. These days the Campo has a daily fruit, vegetable and tourist tat market that gives way to a lively collection of bars each evening (and often well into the early hours). The cafes around the market edge are well worth a visit during the day and provide excellent 'people watching' locations.
The Campo has always been a focus for street culture...
the surrounding streets are named for trades -
Via dei Balestrari (crossbow-makers),
Via dei Baullari (suitcase-makers),
Via dei Cappellari (hat-makers),
Via dei Chiavari (key-makers); and
Via dei Giubbonari (tailors).
Surprisingly, the Campo dei Fiori is the only piazza in the whole of Rome without a single church.
The surrounding area, bounded by the river, the Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, the Largo Argentina and the Via Arenula, is full of interesting lanes and alleyways, often incorporating small artisan shops, art and furniture restorers, local restaurants and is still home to many long-term Romans.
There are still flower sellers to be found at the northern end of the Campo.
In medieval times the campo, while looking much like it does today, was the site for public executions, including hangings, burnings and even a pole where miscreants were hauled up then dropped. It can be seen in the print below.
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The Campo dei Fiori
The Campo dei Fiori