The Campo dei Fiori and surrounds

... a slightly more casual view by Caroline W.

  
Writing this guide for you makes me PINE for Rome. I would much rather be there with you in person, but here are a few quick tips for our places to see and eat. You’ll notice that I often use the Campo as a home base because that’s where the apartment is so that’s how I think of Rome!

Of course, no matter where you’re staying everything is more or less walking distance from everything else.  I’ve also assumed that you’ll have mobile data and / or access to Google Maps. You should download it prior to arrival.

A quick note about cabs – they’re plentiful and relatively inexpensive BUT difficult to hail. We generally walk to a taxi rank rather than hoping to find one on the street, because that’s rare. However your hotel will be able to get them easily, and there are taxi ranks at most of the places you’ll want to go (Colosseum and Forum, near the Barberini, near the Campo, etc). My friend at work says that UBER is all over Rome now but I’ve never used it there before so can’t speak to its effectiveness.

The Campo de Fiori:
The Campo de Fiori is pretty much the center of our lives when we're in Rome. It's a big, beautiful square with cafes and bars all along the outside. At one end is a fountain (surrounded by a flower market during the day) at the foot of the Carbonara building. In the middle is a statue of Giordano Bruno (as it was in the Campo that Bruno was burnt at the stake for suggesting that the Earth revolved around the sun rather than vice versa, an idea which the authorities found…troubling) and at the other end there’s a cinema.

During the day the Campo is full of stalls and markets (fresh fruit and vegetables mainly, but also fabulous cheese, honey, truffles, kitchenware, novelty aprons etc.) and at night all the cafes transition into bars, they clear the markets away (with the world’s tiniest street sweepers) and people mill around drinking. Often there’s live music in the square at night.

In the morning / day time it’s perfect for a coffee and a snack, or to take a quick G&T break after a long day of walking and shopping. In the early evening it’s ideal for a pre-dinner cocktail or glass of wine. Because the Italians have mastered the art of drinking and sitting, your drinks purchase will always be accompanied with a small snack. Sometimes it’s just salty chips (nothing to complain about mind you) but often at night we’ve been presented with everything from olives and crunchy savory biscuits to mini pizzas.

The coffee everywhere is perfect. Yes it's cheaper to drink your coffee standing up at the bar, but if you're schlepping around all day you are going to want to sit down so just do it. Though of course there’s a lot of fun to be had ducking in to a bar for an espresso on the run!

Our favourite bar for both day and night (one of them anyway) isn’t actually in the Campo, but around the corner. As you’re standing facing the fountain and the Carbonara building you’ll see a small street to the left called Via de’ Baullari. There’s a mozzarella bar on the corner called Obicà – it’s OK, not amazing. Walk down that little street and you’ll wind up in the Piazza Farnese – a smaller, quieter square with incredible buildings all around it and the French Embassy on one side. On the corner on your right is a beautiful bar called Caffe Farnese which – like all the bars – is coffee and snacks during the day, drinks and snacks at night. (Note: I think they’ve changed their name, but we just call it the Farnese bar).

In the same street as the Farnese bar, on the same side as the bar but closer to the Campo, is our number one favourite restaurant in all of Rome – Hostaria Farnese. Absolutely traditional Italian family-run restaurant, you will love it. Incredible food, fabulous wine, white-jacketed waiters. Nothing fancy about the food, just fresh, seasonal produce cooked traditionally and flawlessly. They do a dessert of wine-poached pears in a sticky syrup that will make your heart sing. Just perfect. It’s tiny so it’s not a bad idea to book (your hotel will do it for you).

Back looking at the Carbonara building, if you were to walk right down the Via de’ Baullari instead of left, you’ll find more shops to snoop in. If you’re after leather gloves, Angeli on the left hand side (opposite Camper, just before the little square) is great. They’re angry people, but they sell good leather. Small selection of handbags and wallets but if you want something fancy you can do better near the Spanish Steps (more on that later).

As you keep walking down there’s a good stocking / underwear shop on the right called Di Cori – but I had to look up the name because we call it the Nunderwear Shop after we saw a bunch of nuns walking in about 15 years ago.

Further down is yet another fabulous bakery, Il Fornaio. Again, I had to look up the name because we call it ‘The Big Sausage Bakery’. You will understand why once you’re there.

Back in the Campo at the Carbonara building, directly in front of you on the left is the Forno Campo de Fiori (bakery). Particularly fabulous. Bread, cakes, all good things.

Facing the other way (with your back to the Carbonara building, facing the statue of Giordano Bruno), there’s a deli on the far right-hand corner of the Campo called Ruggeri – absolutely incredible. A utopia of meat, cheese, preserves, and good wine (at good prices). They do takeaway fresh rolls and cheeses, but it’s also just a great look around at a really traditional Italian deli. If you were considering a lunch at home, or just wanted stuff for general grazing, this would be the place to stock up.

The street that goes straight out of the Campo (with Ruggeri on your right and the cinema / shoe shop on your left) is the Via dei Giubbonari. The Giubbonari is full of shops and bars. Shops are OK (some interesting, some are a bit cheap) but it’s mostly good for a snoop.

If you walk down the Giubbonari, turn right on to Via dell’Arco del Monte. A little way down on your right you’ll find I dolci di Nonna Vincenza – a café and bakery selling traditional Sicilian pastry. The cannoli are incredible, and better than any cannoli you’ll get anywhere else in Rome. They have a million flavours but my money is on custard, Nutella, or pistachio. They also sell a million other Sicilian and Napolese cakes.

Back on the Giubbonari, almost at the end, is a restaurant called Roscioli Salumeria Con Cuchina. I actually haven’t been there because we seem to only ever decide to eat there at the last minute and it’s always booked out, but mum strongly recommends it. Tiny, gorgeous, cured meats and cheeses and amazing pasta and wine. I would ask your hotel to book a table for you the moment you arrive so you can guarantee a seat.

Directly opposite Roscioli is the Via dei Chiavari (more shops), and a few steps along on the left-hand side is the bakery associated with the restaurant – Antico Forno Roscioli. Great for pizza by the slice and delicious arancini. Also great for bread. Everywhere is great for bread…

Ciao ... Caroline